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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.